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Sulphate-free shampoo, SLS-, SLES-, silicone- and paraben-free shampoo. Until a few years ago, hardly anyone had heard of these substances, while now many people prefer not to see these ingredients on the packaging of their hair care products. But why not? We list the disadvantages for you, explain why they are still widely used, and tell you why it is better to choose sulphate-free shampoo.
Sulphates dissolve the natural sebum and oils your hair and scalp need. That's why it's better to leave them out. You may be familiar with it, your shampoo foams wonderfully in your hair, and you really feel that your hair is getting nice and clean. Chances are your product contains sulphates. This substance dissolves fats and oils very efficiently. Hence, that squeaky clean feeling in your hair. Unfortunately, it not only removes dirt from your hair, but also sebum from your hair and scalp. Whereas, your scalp and hair need sebum to stay healthy. Your hair and scalp dry out, and you make them more vulnerable.
Sulphates come in two varieties: SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulphate) and SLES (Sodium Laureate Sulphate). The latter is already a lot milder than the first kind. SLS and SLES reduce the surface tension of a substance, making it more dispersible. They also trap numerous bubbles of oxygen or another gas in a small amount of liquid by changing the surface tension of the liquid. Hence, making a small amount of shampoo already lathers nicely.
Disadvantages of sulphates in shampoo
What makes sulphates so popular is that they are very cheap. And price remains a significant criterion in this cosmetics market. Why buy an expensive sulphate-free shampoo when 90% of all shampoos are three times cheaper (but still contain sulphates)? And that foaming feeling is, of course, nice. But shampoo without SLS or SLES actually cleanses your hair sufficiently as well, without drying out your hair and scalp. It just feels, if you're not used to sulphate-free shampoo, like you haven't applied enough to your hair. This is because it distributes a little less well. Also, because it doesn't foam, you can't really tell if you've applied it everywhere.
Parabens are used to preserve cosmetics that are prone to contamination by bacteria. They make them last longer. Parabens have been used for over 50 years, but have nevertheless been in the media negatively for some time. Information about them is still circulating. Unjustified, according to KWF Kankerbestrijding and the Dutch Food and Consumer Product Safety Authority. Parabens in deodorants and antiperspirants were, because of an incorrectly conducted study, linked to the development of breast cancer. However, scientific research does not show any link between the use of parabens in deodorants and antiperspirants and breast cancer. In addition, all ingredients and therefore preservatives used in cosmetics must first have been assessed by the European Commission's independent scientific committee.
Having tracked down all the information on parabens, we endorse the opinion of the experts at KWF, the Dutch Food and Goods Authority and the scientific research of the European Commission. So, as far as we are concerned, parabens are safe for your health. In addition, we have not been able to find any information that parabens have a negative impact on the condition of your hair. Nevertheless, we at WECOLOUR take a safe approach. None of WECOLOUR's hair care or hairstyling products contain parabens. With other brands, you will find parabens on the packaging under different names, but always ending in Paraben and Parabens.
At first glance, silicones in hair care products have a positive effect on your hair. They put a thin layer around every hair and make your hair softer, smoother and easier to comb. They also prevent your hair from losing moisture. In the case of outside moisture, such as rain or humid weather, the layer keeps your hair from getting frizzy. To top it all off, silicones often protect your hair from UV radiation. So, your hair is less likely to discolour in the sun and your dyed colour lasts better.
Ideal, you might say! At least it seems that way.
Three types of silicone
If you have the wrong kind in your hair, this film of silicone does not just wash out. This is because there are three different types of silicones: volatile, soluble and insoluble. Volatile silicones volatilise on their own, so to speak, and thus disappear from your hair. Soluble silicones are easy to wash out of your hair with a mild shampoo, i.e. one without SLS or sles. These two types of silicones are more expensive types.
The cheaper, non-soluble variety is more often found in cheaper shampoos and conditioners. Your hair initially appears healthier after using the conditioner because it feels soft and shiny. This is because silicones make your hair optically healthier as they create a layer around your hair. So, they do not care for or improve the condition of your hair. Your locks cannot 'breathe'. Moreover, any ingredients you use to condition your hair cannot reach your hair. This non-soluble variety can only be washed out of your hair with a shampoo that contains wax-active substances like SLS or sles. In other words, an aggressive shampoo.
If you do not use an aggressive shampoo, you will suffer from a so-called build-up. Silicone that builds up around your hair. Build-up weighs down your hair, eventually making it lifeless and listless. And so, we have come full circle. So, rather choose to style products and conditioner without silicones or with water-soluble silicones. And with high-quality ingredients that really care for your hair. To get you started, we have listed the most common silicones for you. Where it is better for your hair to avoid the insoluble ones.
Volatile and water-soluble silicones | Non-soluble silicones | |
dimethicone copolyol | dimethicone | |
Hydrolysed wheat protein hydroxy propyl polysiloxane | dimethicone | |
lauryl methicone copolyol | cyclopentasiloxane | |
cyclomethicone | methicone | |
cyclopentasiloxane | dimethicone | |
Phenyl propyl dimethicone | trisiloxane | |
trimethylsilylamodimethicone |
SLS and SLES are too harsh on your hair. And as you just read, non-soluble silicones don't ultimately do your hair any good either. That is why WECOLOUR hair care, such as the cleansing treatment Dark Bamboo, the WECOLOUR conditioner and the caring and protective Argan Silk, is free of sulphates, parabens and silicones. Because at the end of the day, we believe beautiful hair is well-cared-for hair. Besides, the colour in your hair also stays longer if your hair is healthy. That is why WECOLOUR shampoo is sulphate-free as well as free of parabens and silicones.